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The front brake of the GS is pretty good, but there is always room for improvement. The standard GS front brake caliper has 2 pistons, which meets the needs of the average motorcyclist. But as you might have noticed, I`m not that average when it comes to my GS. Who doesn`t want an even smoother brake response. The GSXR front brake calipers have 4 pistons each. Four piston calipers provide much more brake power than 2 piston calipers and they provide a smooth brake response. You need less "finger power" to brake hard in comparison with 2 piston calipers. So when you want to brake hard, you don`t have to squeeze the brake lever until you break your fingers.

I took a right side 1991 GSXR750 brake caliper because it was cheap and good, but theoretically you can mate any right sided brake caliper to your front fork.

(lick image to enlarge)

Image 1: A real Nissin GSXR brake caliper.

 

Image 2: Notice the 4 pistons and the thick brake pads.

The next explanation will provide you enough information to do this modification, but again, at your own risk! Be aware, the front brake is one of the most important things on your bike. When you`re not certain you are capable of doing this modification, then DON`T do this modification!!

Tip: Read the whole explanation before doing this modification.

 

 
 
 
 
 

First the things you need:

(click image to enlarge)

Image 3: The parts you need for this mod.

Image 4: The parts I replaced on my bike during this mod.

As you can see I also replaced the brake disk. The old one was worn, but it is not necessary for this modification to replace the brake disk if it`s not worn.

Image 5: It`s not necessary to replace it, but it sure looks good!

Now that you know what you need, the only thing you need to know is how to do it.

Before you can work on your fork, you`ll have to remove the old brake caliper. Don`t loosen the brake hose yet! Only remove it from the fork. First get all the data, measurements and parts you need to make this thing work. Only when you`re certain that everything will fit and you have it and you`re capable to refill the brake fluid, you can completely remove the caliper and the brake hose and put the new brake caliper on. When you loosen the brake hose before you have all the parts and data, you can`t ride your bike for the day`s you have to wait for the parts because you don`t have any brake power. When you don`t have any experience with refilling the brake fluid, don`t loosen the brake hose at all!! Let a mechanic do it for you. In this explanation I will inform you when it is time to completely remove the caliper. Until then, the caliper is removed from the fork, but still hanging on the brake line!

The GSXR brake caliper won`t fit to your GS fork immediately. You`ll have to make some sort of bracket to mate it to your right fork leg. We use the mounting points on the fork where the old GS caliper was attached to the it. But in able to do this, you have to know where the holes for the bolts should come in the bracket (2 holes for the caliper bolts and 2 holes for the bolts keeping the bracket on the fork). Best way is to clamp the brake caliper on your brake disk using the brake pads to keep it in position. You could also let someone hold the caliper in place. Now you can see the positions of the holes. You should be able to make some sort of template or paper with the positions of the holes on it. I made several templates out of PCB (printed Circuit Board) until I got one which was precisely the shape it had to be. I used PCB because it is really easy to work with and still hard enough to screw the caliper on (just to see if the holes were on the right place of course). You have to attach the template (and afterwards, also the bracket) on the outside of the fork to see if the positions of the holes are right (see also image 9). Just go on making templates until you have one which has the right shape and the holes on the right position. By the way, the diameter of the 4 holes you need to drill is 10,0mm.

After you`ve made a template, you`ll probably notice the caliper isn`t aligned with the brake disk yet. You`d probably want to mount the template (or later the bracket) on the inside of the fork, but this causes even bigger alignment problems. So just mount it on the outside of the fork. The alignment problem can be solved with a spacer and some flattening/leveling out of the mounting positions on the fork, but first make the actual bracket. Aligning is explained below image 7.

I`ve made the bracket out of stainless steel. Some people say aluminium will work too, because the front forks are also made out of aluminium. My personal opinion? I think aluminium is too soft to handle the powers the bracket has to withstand. I don`t want to run the risk the caliper breaks off. That`s why I choose stainless steel. One problem, the bracket became way too heavy. To solve this I drilled some holes in it to make it lighter. It worked, but eventually an aluminium bracket will be much lighter, but less solid! By the way, I let a metalworker make the bracket and he also drilled the holes. Stainless steel is just too strong and hard to do it yourself (or you have machines to do it, then it`s a piece of cake).

(click image to enlarge)

Image 6: The template I made out of PCB (Printed Circuit Board).

Image 7: The result: A stainless steel bracket with a 6mm thick spacer.

The numbers in the images correspond with the holes, so NOT the diameter!

When you`ve made the bracket, you`ll see that the brake caliper isn`t aligned with the brake disk. It should be moved to the inside of the wheel. To attain this, you`ll have to flatten/level out the 2 bumps on the outside of the fork. After you`ve flattened/leveled out the mounting positions on the fork, you`ll have to make some sort of spacer to move the caliper even further away from the bracket towards the brake disk. The easiest way to do this is to put some simple round spacers between the bracket and the caliper. Better is to make one big spacer (see image 7, the left side). The connection between the bracket and the caliper will be more solid that way.

(click image to enlarge)

Image 8: The brake disk is perfectly aligned with the caliper.

Also make sure the brake disk doesn`t scratch anything inside the caliper, except the brake pads. Don`t mount the caliper to far over the brake disk, or the brake disk rotors will hit the caliper and cause some serious damage. Mount the caliper over the brake disk as in image 8.

When you`ve made the bracket and the spacer, it`s just a matter of mounting it on your right side fork. Be sure to completely flatten the outside of the 2 mounting points on the fork to be certain the bracket is parallel with the brake disk (see image 9, the red circle). To mount the bracket on the fork, you`ll have to remove the front wheel and push 2 bolts through the 2 holes in the fork from the inside (the side where the wheel was mounted) to the outside! (I replaced the brake disk as well, so the front wheel was already out). The head of the bolt (see image 9, the blue circles) is smaller than the nut (see image 9, the brown circles) which comes on the outside of the bracket. So the nut is screwed on to the bolt on the outside of the bracket. I`ve done this because there is too little room on the inside of the fork for the nut, but not for the bolts:

(click image to enlarge)

Image 9: The nuts on the outside of the bracket! (looking from straight above the caliper).

Everything fits well? The caliper is aligned with the brake disk? The nuts are long enough? The front wheel can still turn round? You have the equipment to refill the brake fluid?

You are ready for page 2: