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The main problem of the GS when it comes to road holding is the very soft front suspension. During braking the front dives down about 15,0cm or so. This "dive" effect has a bad influence on the performance of the bike, the road holding is less on a dry surface. It also makes the bike feel unsafe and uncomfortable. One positive point, the very soft suspension of the GS works very well on wet surfaces. But because I almost never ride the bike when it`s raining and I found the "diving" very annoying I wanted a harder front suspension. I had two solutions to this problem. I could add spacers, which could make the front a bit harder but the spring rate of the springs in the forks is still very soft. Second option was too install progressive springs and other fork oil. This option was much better and would improve the front`s road holding drastically. One problem, this option is also more expensive. But because I had some money left I choose the progressive springs. So that`s what this explanation is all about. Installing progressive front fork springs and replace the original fork oil with 15W fork oil. This modification will work on all models, with or without preload adjustable fork cap bolts. Mine has preload adjustable fork cap bolts:

Image 1

 

 
 
 
 
 

Best thing is to remove both front forks completely from your bike. This will make the work on the fork much easier. There are a few steps you have to do before we can begin with the actual mod:

1. Remove the front brake caliper and brake hose from the fork leg. Hang the caliper on a rope on your steer or something, so that it does`t hang on the brake hose itself.

2. Remove the front wheel. (put some wooden blocks under the engine block)

3. Remove the front fender (see image 2).

4. Remove the bolts securing the fork brace (the plate which holds the forks together and where the fender was attached to) and remove the brace:

Image 2

The bolts with the blue arrows are the ones securing the fork brace to the forks, the ones with the red arrows are the bolts securing the fender to fork brace.

5. Now you can loosen the fork cap bolt (see image 1) a little bit. Just loosen them, don`t remove them, and make sure the fork will not leak oil because of this (it`s not bad when they do, after all, you`re going to refill them anyway, but it gets messy when they leak oil).

6. Loosen the upper and lower fork tube pinch bolts. These are the bolts on the clamps which actually hold the forks:

Image 3

7. Carefully pull each fork leg down and out of the upper and lower fork bridge clamps (and with most models also out of the headlight mounting bracket). It may be necessary to rotate the fork tube slightly while pulling it down and out.

 

Now that you have both forks taken apart from your bike, you can start with the mod. At this point you need a bench-vice to put the fork in. Always work on one fork at a time. This will make the work easier and well-organized. Put the fork in the bench-vice, with some rubber between the bench-vice and the fork, to protect the fork from scratching. Tighten the bench-vice to prevent the fork from rotating in the vice when you remove the fork cap bolt. Keep the fork in the bench-vice until you let the oil flow out of it (but this is described on page 2, so keep it in at this point). So the fork stay`s in the bench-vice for the next three pictures. Now get the right wrench and remove the fork cap bolt (image 4). Before you start, you could put on some gloves. The oil on the spring and the other parts coming out of the fork are pretty slippery and oily, which can be pretty though to remove from your hands afterwards.

Image 4

Watch out: when the cap bolt is almost completely turned out of the thread of the fork tube, it will be thrown of the fork with high velocity by the fork spring. Same goes for the spacer and the spring seat. Try to prevent the cap bolt from destroying the inner thread of the fork tube (because it is pushed out by the fork spring) by pushing the cap bolt down when it`s almost out of the thread. This will also prevent the cap bolt from flying away.

Now remove the spacer and the spring seat:

Image 5

Again, watch out for the spacer and the spring seat. They are thrown out of the fork tube with high velocity.

Explanation continues on page 2: